Below you will find the instructions on how to use HotMold 

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HotMold - molds for use in HotPot microwave 

How to use the HotMold (manual)

Perpare the mold with ThinFire and Fibre paper before use (or use kilnwash - see instructions below). 

  1. Apply Elmer's Glue on the backside of the mold to stick ThinFire Paper on the bottom of the mold.  
  2. Line the inside edges of the mold with Fibre Paper. It is no problem if the paper is slightly higher than the top level of the mold.
    Again a few drops of Elmer's Glue will help stick the paper to the edges. Make sure the paper is secure by pressing against the sides (by using e.g. a pen). 
  3. We line the Fibre Paper layer with a top layer of ThinFire Paper, again using Elmer's Glue and pressing tightly to make sure it sticks against the edges. 
Filling the mold with glas 
  1. Use a few drops of Elmer's Glue on the ThinFire Paper bottom of the mold. This way the stacked glass will stay in place as you fill the mold.
    Use little pieces of glass (leftovers), glassfritt, stringers or old (broken) glass cabochons. 
  2. Start filling the mold. The glass can be stacked higher than the top-level of mold, but make sure none of the protruding pieces can fold or bend over the edges on the unprotected surface of the mold.
    Glass that is molten onto the mold itself cannot be removed. 
  3. Make sure the mold is nice and full, the glass will melt into the open spaces.
  4. Experiment with the way you align the pieces of glass, laying some on the bottom, and others against each other in a row. This will make surprising effects in the end product.
  1. Place the mold on the HotPot bottom, on top of a piece of Fibre Paper (as usual when fusing your glass cabochons).
  2. Fuse the glass, heating it slowly! Heating too quick may cause cracks in the mold (the mold can still be used with a minor crack if you line it properly with paper) 
  3. Fuse the Standard HotPot at a maximum of 300 watt (for about 20-30 minutes). Fuse the HotPot Maxi at a maximum of 450 Watt (for about 20-30 minutes).
    If after 30 minutes the glass has not shown any signs of melting, but the fusing paper is brown, you may increase the Voltage to 600 watt, continuing to fuse until the glass has melted. 
  4. Make sure not to heat the mold to much with the glass inside. 
  5. Note: fusing will take longer than without a mold, because the mold is absorbing some of the heat as well as the glass. So take your time for fusing and cooling down. Check regularly if the glass has fused completely. But don't open the HotPot for longer than one second (naturally you will use heat protective gloves and wear eyeprotection when checking on your glasswork).
  6. Cool the glass (and the mold) inside the HotPot (of course outside of the microwave). After it is fully cooled down, you can take out the mold, release the glass and clean your glasswork with water (and if needed a brush). 
Final stage
  1. Sometimes the glass item has some small sharp edges. You can file the edges or clear them with special pliers. 
  2. After clearing the sharp edges you can fire the glass piece once more, this time without a mold. But make sure not to heat too much because you might lose the shape! 

Long lasting 

The HotMold is made of high quality material that has been kiln fired at a temperature of over 1200 degrees Celcius. This way we achieve a mold that can withstand the heat of the HotPot and the glass. As long as you treat the mold carefully, by heating it gradually and cooling down slowly, you should be able to use the mold for an extended period of time. 
A minor crack caused by overheating too quickly will do no harm because you line the mold with Fibre and ThinFire Paper. Just make sure the glass does not come in direct contact with the mold itself. 


Using kilnwash on HotMold

Alternatively to fibre and fire paper, you can also use the mold with kilnwash. Kilnwash is used in professional glass kilns and gives the same smooth finish as ThinFire Paper.

One coating of kilnwash will allow for several firings  (two to three times). Make sure to line the bottom with ThinFire Paper (or the glass will fall out).

Make sure to adhere to safety regulations as stated by the manufacturer. 

Prepare the kilnwash according to manufacturer instructions

  1. Mix thouroughly. If needed, use two marbles in a securely closed box/tin to mix properly.

Preparing the mold

  1. Apply the kilnwash with a soft brush, stroking from left to right to get an even layer. Let dry (the coating will turn a lighter shade and matt color). Apply a second layer, this time brushing in opposite direction. 
  2. Apply a total of 4 layers kiln wash each in opposite directions. 

Heating the kilnwash for first use
Before you can use kilnwash it has to be fired once without glass

  1. When you’re using kilnwash, the mixture is pink/purple when applying. After heating it will turn white. The colorcoding allows the coating to change color to indicate it is ready to use. 
  2. We tested the Voltage setting of our microwave and used the following schedule:
  • Standaard HotPot, heat at least 25 minutes on  300 watt - cool with the lid closed (outside of microwave)
  • In the Maxi HotPot heat at least 35 minutes on 300 watt - cool with lid closed (outside of microwave)


The kilnwash will now have left a powderlike coating on the edges. Use a layer of ThinFire Paper on the bottom and follow instructions above for fusing. 

Storing leftover kilnwash

You can store the kilnwash that’s leftover for another time. Make sure you mix thouroughly before use to get rid of residu that has settled on the bottom and edges.