1. Apply Elmer's Glue on the backside of the mold to stick ThinFire Paper on the bottom of the mold.  
2. Line the inside edges of the mold with Fibre Paper. It is no problem if the paper is slightly higher than the top level of the mold.
   Again a few drops of Elmer's Glue will help stick the paper to the edges. Make sure the paper is secure by pressing against the sides (by using e.g. a pen). 
3. We line the Fibre Paper layer with a top layer of ThinFire Paper, again using Elmer's Glue and pressing tightly to make sure it sticks against the edges. 

1. Use a few drops of Elmer's Glue on the ThinFire Paper bottom of the mold. This way the stacked glass will stay in place as you fill the mold.
   Use little pieces of glass (leftovers), glassfritt, stringers or old (broken) glass cabochons. 
2. Start filling the mold. The glass can be stacked higher than the top-level of mold, but make sure none of the protruding pieces can fold or bend over the edges on the unprotected surface of the mold.
   Glass that is molten onto the mold itself cannot be removed. 
3. Make sure the mold is nice and full, the glass will melt into the open spaces.
4. Experiment with the way you align the pieces of glass, laying some on the bottom, and others against each other in a row. This will make surprising effects in the end product.

1. Place the mold on the HotPot bottom, on top of a piece of Fibre Paper (as usual when fusing your glass cabochons).
2. Fuse the glass, heating it slowly! Heating too quick may cause cracks in the mold (the mold can still be used with a minor crack if you line it properly with paper) 
3. Fuse the Standard HotPot at a maximum of 300 watt (for about 20-30 minutes). Fuse the HotPot Maxi at a maximum of 450 Watt (for about 20-30 minutes).
   If after 30 minutes the glass has not shown any signs of melting, but the fusing paper is brown, you may increase the Voltage to 600 watt, continuing to fuse until the glass has melted. 
4. Make sure not to heat the mold to much with the glass inside. 
5. Note: fusing will take longer than without a mold, because the mold is absorbing some of the heat as well as the glass. So take your time for fusing and cooling down. Check regularly if the glass has fused completely. But don't open the HotPot for longer than one second (naturally you will use heat protective gloves and wear eyeprotection when checking on your glasswork).
6. Cool the glass (and the mold) inside the HotPot (of course outside of the microwave). After it is fully cooled down, you can take out the mold, release the glass and clean your glasswork with water (and if needed a brush). 

1. Sometimes the glass item has some small sharp edges. You can file the edges or clear them with special pliers. 
2. After clearing the sharp edges you can fire the glass piece once more, this time without a mold. But make sure not to heat too much because you might lose the shape! 

Long lasting